Site search
sponsored by
News
ENLARGE
<b>Renquist</b>
Pruning landscape plants is a subject that makes many of us uncomfortable.
Do we prune all plants the same? We’re not sure what to do, so we tend to approach pruning only as a size control process. Pruning is both art and science and not something in which most of us get training. Pruning should both enhance a plant’s natural beauty and form, and keep the plant vigorous and productive — whether it is a flowering tree, shrub or a fruit tree.
When working with shrubs there are a couple of rules to follow to get started on good pruning practices. First, there are usually two types of cuts used on shrubs. Heading cuts remove ends of branches to make the plant more dense. Thinning cuts remove entire branches or canes to give the plant a more open form. Second, you should know what the natural shape or habit is for each shrub in your landscape.
To enhance a plant’s natural form, a mound-forming shrub such as abelia or escallonia should be given thinning cuts near ground level to remove tall shoots that grow above the mound form. Don’t shear mound-forming shrubs or they will become too dense. Cane-forming shrubs such as forsythia and lilac should be allowed to reach their natural height but every year thinning cuts should be used, and one-eighth to one-fifth of the canes, preferably the oldest, should be taken out.
Do we prune all plants the same? We’re not sure what to do, so we tend to approach pruning only as a size control process. Pruning is both art and science and not something in which most of us get training. Pruning should both enhance a plant’s natural beauty and form, and keep the plant vigorous and productive — whether it is a flowering tree, shrub or a fruit tree.
When working with shrubs there are a couple of rules to follow to get started on good pruning practices. First, there are usually two types of cuts used on shrubs. Heading cuts remove ends of branches to make the plant more dense. Thinning cuts remove entire branches or canes to give the plant a more open form. Second, you should know what the natural shape or habit is for each shrub in your landscape.
To enhance a plant’s natural form, a mound-forming shrub such as abelia or escallonia should be given thinning cuts near ground level to remove tall shoots that grow above the mound form. Don’t shear mound-forming shrubs or they will become too dense. Cane-forming shrubs such as forsythia and lilac should be allowed to reach their natural height but every year thinning cuts should be used, and one-eighth to one-fifth of the canes, preferably the oldest, should be taken out.
Upright or tree-like shrubs such as rhododendrons or pieris usually need little pruning and will look best when thinned slightly every few years. Heading cuts should be saved for hedges in which tight compact growth is desired.
Flowering shrubs and trees require a little more thought before pruning if you want them to bloom nicely each year. You must consider when these plants bloom; if they bloom in late winter or spring, you want to prune after bloom. If they bloom in summer or fall, you want to prune during dormancy in winter.
Never top trees. This destroys their natural beauty and weakens them structurally. When planting trees, plan ahead and put them in a location that matches their natural heights. Shade trees need open sky and plenty of distance from your home so you needn’t worry about them falling or dropping limbs. Small flowering trees fit under power lines or close to a structure. Generally, thinning cuts that remove whole limbs work well with trees. If an old tree is causing you some concern, limb reduction will take weight off without topping.
To learn more about pruning ornamentals, shade trees or fruit trees, plan to attend one of the many pruning classes offered by OSU Extension and the Master Gardeners in January, February and March. Contact the Extension office for more details.
<i>Steve Renquist is the Horticulture Extension Agent for OSU Extension Service of Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at steve.renquist@oregonstate.edu or by phone at 541-672-4461.</i>
Flowering shrubs and trees require a little more thought before pruning if you want them to bloom nicely each year. You must consider when these plants bloom; if they bloom in late winter or spring, you want to prune after bloom. If they bloom in summer or fall, you want to prune during dormancy in winter.
Never top trees. This destroys their natural beauty and weakens them structurally. When planting trees, plan ahead and put them in a location that matches their natural heights. Shade trees need open sky and plenty of distance from your home so you needn’t worry about them falling or dropping limbs. Small flowering trees fit under power lines or close to a structure. Generally, thinning cuts that remove whole limbs work well with trees. If an old tree is causing you some concern, limb reduction will take weight off without topping.
To learn more about pruning ornamentals, shade trees or fruit trees, plan to attend one of the many pruning classes offered by OSU Extension and the Master Gardeners in January, February and March. Contact the Extension office for more details.
<i>Steve Renquist is the Horticulture Extension Agent for OSU Extension Service of Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at steve.renquist@oregonstate.edu or by phone at 541-672-4461.</i>
