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Douglas County is about 80 percent forested. That’s a lot of trees!
Many of the trees in private forests were hand-planted, since Oregon’s laws require prompt reforestation and hand-planting is generally more reliable than reforestation by seed. If planting is on your to-do list, here are some tips to improve your success.
Timing is everything. Plant when the upper 10 inches of soil is moist, the soil is not frozen more than one-half inch deep, snow cover is less than 2 inches, air temperature is between 30 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, wind velocity is less than 20 mph, and the seedlings are fully dormant. In Douglas County, these conditions are generally best met between Jan. 1 and March 15.
Many of the trees in private forests were hand-planted, since Oregon’s laws require prompt reforestation and hand-planting is generally more reliable than reforestation by seed. If planting is on your to-do list, here are some tips to improve your success.
Timing is everything. Plant when the upper 10 inches of soil is moist, the soil is not frozen more than one-half inch deep, snow cover is less than 2 inches, air temperature is between 30 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, wind velocity is less than 20 mph, and the seedlings are fully dormant. In Douglas County, these conditions are generally best met between Jan. 1 and March 15.
Keep the roots moist and the trees cool. Dried-out roots are dead roots, and bare root seedlings are very susceptible to drying. Seedlings in containers are a bit more protected, but need careful treatment nonetheless. To help prevent damage, keep roots covered and moist from the moment seedlings are removed from their shipping bundles until they are planted. Plant in the rain if possible. Carry seedlings in a planting bag or bucket to protect them from sun and wind, and remove just one tree at a time for planting — after the hole has been dug.
Dig a good hole. Many planting errors can be blamed on holes too small for the roots going in them. Holes should be deep enough to hold the root system with ease and to allow for broken soil all around the root system to promote root growth.
If the roots are 9 inches long, dig the hole at least 12 inches deep to provide broken soil under the seedling. Hoedads and planting shovels are both viable hole-digging options – just make the hole big.
Plant at the right depth. Trees should be planted at the same depth they experienced in the nursery or a bit deeper. Planting that is too shallow leaves upper roots exposed, leading to their death. Planting too deeply can be a problem if lower twigs and needles are buried.
Get the roots in a natural position. Be sure the planting hole is large enough in width and depth so the root system will not be crowded or j-rooted.
Firm the soil around each plant. While holding the tree in an upright position at the correct depth, fill the hole with loose, moist soil. Do not let dry soil, rocks or surface litter fall in the hole, or roots in these dry spots could be damaged or killed. After filling the hole with moist soil, press soil down firmly.
Manage competition. Planting the tree is only part of the battle. Control competing vegetation for at least the next two years to give the tree time to become fully established.
A little extra time spent during planting can yield big dividends in seedling survival — so plant your trees right.
For more information, visit extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/and follow the link to our forestry & wood processing publications.
<i>John Punches is the Extension Forestry Agent and Staff Chair for OSU Extension Service in Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at john.punches@oregonstate.edu or at 541-672-4461.</i>
Dig a good hole. Many planting errors can be blamed on holes too small for the roots going in them. Holes should be deep enough to hold the root system with ease and to allow for broken soil all around the root system to promote root growth.
If the roots are 9 inches long, dig the hole at least 12 inches deep to provide broken soil under the seedling. Hoedads and planting shovels are both viable hole-digging options – just make the hole big.
Plant at the right depth. Trees should be planted at the same depth they experienced in the nursery or a bit deeper. Planting that is too shallow leaves upper roots exposed, leading to their death. Planting too deeply can be a problem if lower twigs and needles are buried.
Get the roots in a natural position. Be sure the planting hole is large enough in width and depth so the root system will not be crowded or j-rooted.
Firm the soil around each plant. While holding the tree in an upright position at the correct depth, fill the hole with loose, moist soil. Do not let dry soil, rocks or surface litter fall in the hole, or roots in these dry spots could be damaged or killed. After filling the hole with moist soil, press soil down firmly.
Manage competition. Planting the tree is only part of the battle. Control competing vegetation for at least the next two years to give the tree time to become fully established.
A little extra time spent during planting can yield big dividends in seedling survival — so plant your trees right.
For more information, visit extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/and follow the link to our forestry & wood processing publications.
<i>John Punches is the Extension Forestry Agent and Staff Chair for OSU Extension Service in Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at john.punches@oregonstate.edu or at 541-672-4461.</i>
