News
ENLARGE
As a beginning gardener and horticulture student, I was fortunate to grow up in the 1960s and 1970s, when the back-to-the-land movement was gaining momentum. A strong desire to minimize gardening inputs and let nature work led me to study integrated pest management in college. With 40 years working in agriculture, and as a serious gardener, I now realize nature doesn't always do things the way we would prefer. But if you respect and work with her, you will be rewarded.
Working within natural systems isn't always the easiest way to garden, as it requires a great deal of knowledge about soil, plants, insects, disease, weather, watering and more. However, I find a lot more satisfaction in using knowledge as a good gardener, rather than using products to resolve problems. The style of gardening I practice is known as low-input gardening.
Low-input gardening is a systems approach to gardening. It starts when you plan your landscape. You need to ask yourself what plants will do best in a yard, given the soil, exposure, and drainage. Think about which plants will best adapt to our climate and which require the least amount of irrigation water. Which are the hardiest against insect and disease pests? Which will provide you with enjoyment, but not too much work? Once you've chosen the plants for your site with low input in mind, you have already reduced the potential amount of necessary watering, fertilizing, and pest control.
However, if a problem does arise, you should first look at the cultural methods you're using and learn to be patient with the chemicals. For example if you're raising roses and struggling to control black spot or powdery mildew, you should find varieties that are resistant to the diseases. Plant your roses in full sun, not shade, to minimize disease. And it is a good idea to keep your sprinkler water off the foliage. By attacking a problem using this method, the need for fungicides can be dramatically reduced. You can use integrated pest management methods for most insect and disease problems. If you garden long enough, you may have a problem with insects or disease that will require the help of a pesticide. When this happens, look for the softest, least toxic chemical control first. By using the least toxic control first, you create a safer gardening method for you and nature. If you need help with any of these processes, call the Master Gardener plant clinic for advice or think about registering for our Master Gardener class.
Why am I addressing this topic? In many recent research projects across the country, analysis shows that the water runoff coming from residential areas continues to contribute to the pesticide and fertilizer load that is reaching our streams, rivers, and groundwater supplies. It is my belief that if more of us practiced low-input gardening we would have a very positive impact on improving water quality and the countryside around us.
To learn more about low-input gardening, visit the OSU Extension office at 1134 S.E. Douglas Ave., Roseburg.
Steve Renquist is the Horticulture Extension agent for OSU Extension Service of Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at steve.renquist@oregonstate.edu or by phone at 541-672-4461.
Working within natural systems isn't always the easiest way to garden, as it requires a great deal of knowledge about soil, plants, insects, disease, weather, watering and more. However, I find a lot more satisfaction in using knowledge as a good gardener, rather than using products to resolve problems. The style of gardening I practice is known as low-input gardening.
Low-input gardening is a systems approach to gardening. It starts when you plan your landscape. You need to ask yourself what plants will do best in a yard, given the soil, exposure, and drainage. Think about which plants will best adapt to our climate and which require the least amount of irrigation water. Which are the hardiest against insect and disease pests? Which will provide you with enjoyment, but not too much work? Once you've chosen the plants for your site with low input in mind, you have already reduced the potential amount of necessary watering, fertilizing, and pest control.
However, if a problem does arise, you should first look at the cultural methods you're using and learn to be patient with the chemicals. For example if you're raising roses and struggling to control black spot or powdery mildew, you should find varieties that are resistant to the diseases. Plant your roses in full sun, not shade, to minimize disease. And it is a good idea to keep your sprinkler water off the foliage. By attacking a problem using this method, the need for fungicides can be dramatically reduced. You can use integrated pest management methods for most insect and disease problems. If you garden long enough, you may have a problem with insects or disease that will require the help of a pesticide. When this happens, look for the softest, least toxic chemical control first. By using the least toxic control first, you create a safer gardening method for you and nature. If you need help with any of these processes, call the Master Gardener plant clinic for advice or think about registering for our Master Gardener class.
Why am I addressing this topic? In many recent research projects across the country, analysis shows that the water runoff coming from residential areas continues to contribute to the pesticide and fertilizer load that is reaching our streams, rivers, and groundwater supplies. It is my belief that if more of us practiced low-input gardening we would have a very positive impact on improving water quality and the countryside around us.
To learn more about low-input gardening, visit the OSU Extension office at 1134 S.E. Douglas Ave., Roseburg.
Steve Renquist is the Horticulture Extension agent for OSU Extension Service of Douglas County. He can be reached by e-mail at steve.renquist@oregonstate.edu or by phone at 541-672-4461.
